Even The Simple Maintenance - Check & Replace Smoke Detector Batteries!

    My RV came with an adorable smoke detector. Like my motorhome, it's a 3/4 scale version of a full size detector. I test it regularly, so I know it's still working. Not just by pressing the TEST button, but by blowing out a match a few feet away and making sure it triggers the alarm. Usually, it's very easy to replace a battery in a smoke detector. Some of them can be a bit fiddly to get the old one out....but most of the time it's simple. Why not try and see if you can get it done yourself? An ounce of prevention is certainly worth a pound (or MANY dollars!) of cure.

The 9V Battery Compartment

First, you have to remove the detector from its mounting. On mine, I just had to grasp the detector like I was removing a jar lid and gently turn it slightly counter-clockwise. You can feel the detector release from its ceiling mount with a "click." Once removed, flip it over. On some, you will just see the battery in a small compartment. On others there will be a battery tray with a lid that either has a screw holding it on or a small plastic lever that you push to one side and pull up the cover. Most detectors I have seen use a 9 Volt battery. That's the sort of rectangular one with two snap-on contacts on one side. There are MANY different kinds to choose from including some VERY expensive ones allegedly designed just for smoke detectors. I just use a plain old, good quality, alkaline one from a major manufacturer. So far, I haven't ever had a failure. Besides, the manufacturer's manual told me to use them!

Be Careful Of The Thin Wires, They Are Easily Damaged.

Once you manage to remove the old battery, take a look at the innards of the detector. Everything look OK? Have any water leaks gotten inside the unit? If so, I would replace it. You never know what water and electronics mixing together will do. Most of the time it will cause a failure. With a safety device, it's not worth taking any chances. Before installing the new battery, make sure the contacts are clean and the wires aren't frayed or have bare spots rubbed through the insulation. If it looks good and has been working it's probably OK. Insert the new battery and route the wires so they don't get pinched when you replace the battery cover and reinstall the detector in its mount. Now test it. You can press and hold the test button first...but I still use a blown out match to be really sure.

Peace of mind is worth a few minutes of easy work. Just go online and do a search for motorhome fires. They can be devastating. Prevention is the key!

Be Seeing You...Down The Road,

Rich "The Wanderman"
www.thewanderman.com

Even The Simple Maintenance - Tighten Your Refrigerator/Appliance Screws!

   Like most of you, I drive my RV lots of miles. I'd wager if you drove a sticks and bricks house down the road at 60 MPH lots of stuff would get loose and/or break free. So it's no wonder that the major appliances and their mounts in the RV are going to do the same. It really pays to check them out after every (OK, not EVERY) trip. Recently, I heard a strange thump come from my refrigerator (just after my mirror changed it's position) After checking it out, it was caused by several of the screws holding the fridge to its frame mounting getting loose from the vibration of a drive. How can you stop that?

Well, you really can't completely eliminate screws backing out from continual vibration, but you can certainly slow them down. Easiest thing to do is tighten them up periodically. In my case, that stopped the movement of the fridge and I was done. Next time, or when I begin to winterize, I may remove each screw and use some thread locking compound (or just some white glue) to try and keep them tightened for a longer time. I will be looking into doing that at a later date. Maybe I'll even write an article about it...

Pay No Attention To The Bottle Of Seltzer!

On my Dometic refrigerator there are several screws inside the door frame on either side holding the fridge to the front framing of its enclosure. When I first bought the RV the original ones were completely stripped out or missing entirely. I replaced them with regular wood screws that fit the holes well, but aren't all that pretty, They hold well in the wood framing and the refrigerator door shuts completely, so looks aren't all that critical here. In addition to the screws on the door sides (fridge AND freezer compartments) there are screws at the top and bottom of the unit. In order to get to these, several small screws need to be removed to allow the plastic cover panels to be taken off and the screws accessed. The bottom one is pretty easy, but the top one has wiring for the control panel in it, so you have to be very careful when you pull it away from the fridge itself. Afterwards, just tighten the screws and replace the covers. Be careful not to pinch any wires or accidentally detach them! You'll know pretty quickly as the fridge display won't work properly. Don't ask how I know.

This is a tiny bit of easy preventive maintenance you can do whenever you have a few spare minutes. I keep a Phillips head screwdriver handy so I can tighten various screws around the RV. Especially after a particular bumpy ride. You'll also prevent the screw holes from becoming enlarged and that's a whole 'nother repair. Better to have an ounce of prevention than a pound of cure!

Be Seeing You...Down The Road,

Rich "The Wanderman"
www.thewanderman.com

Even The Simple Repairs - Fix Your Loose Oustide Mirrors

Elephant Ears!

    Outside mirrors are good. BIG outside mirrors are even better. Even with a backup camera, they are still a true necessity when navigating an RV both on the highway and in tight spots. There are a few companies that make them, but they all work essentially the same way. There are powered and unpowered versions. My RV has the powered variety. That just means I can adjust the mirrors themselves when I am driving without getting out of the RV. I was having a problem with the passenger side mirror moving out of position when I hit a large bump in the road. This was NOT due to the electrically adjustable mechanics of the system, but rather the simple ball and socket mount at the base of the mirror itself.

See The Rusted Set Screw?

In most installations there is a mounting arm that is screwed to the side of the RV and the mirror assembly itself mounts into it using a set screw or screws to adjust the tension on the ball inside the socket. Since it was adjustable, I figured I could simply reset the mirror and tight the allen/hex head set screws to keep it there. Sure, that would have worked except both set screws were rusted and impossible to turn! I sprayed a whole bunch of penetrating oil into the screw area and began hoping. You see, the housing is made of a different metal than the screws, so only the screws were rusted. I had a chance!

After a day (and two resprays) I was able to slowly back both screws out and clean them up. I also cleaned the screw holes and made sure they were clear of debris before putting the screws back in. Once that was done, I adjusted the placement of the mirror (definitely helps to have another person!) and tightened the screws till it stayed put. That's when I realized the other side would likely be the same....of course, Murphy was indeed an optimist!

I treated the set screws and holes the same way on the other side. I cleaned the holes, re-inserted the screws and I was done. A very simple fix. Though, the waiting for the penetrating oil to work was long. I rate this project a solid 2 out of 10 for difficulty. You need to be careful when you take the screws out. It would be very easy to strip out the threads in the holes and that would get expensive if you had to source an entire replacement mirror mount and then reinstall and seal it to the side of the RV. Be careful!

Now I have solid, sturdily mounted mirrors that I can adjust from the driver's seat at will. No more changes in aiming due to bumps...what could be better than that?

Be Seeing You...Down The Road,

Rich "The Wanderman"
www.thewanderman.com